New lasted shoes

Here's the next pair, taken from a shoe found at Newstead, illustrated in the Curle book, available in online form here. This is the second effort on the same last, however I experimented a bit with ways to use the last. Previously I had had difficulty stretching the toe around sufficiently with the heel preplaced and the the last intact. Here, I put a couple nails in the toe first, then slid the heel piece and assembled the last in place inside the shoe. fortunatly the wedge shaped center section works perfectly for this. I can see some improvements that need to be made to the last design: the edge around the bottom should be sharper, the sole cross section should have a little s curve, so the toe kicks up a hair, and the sole raises up a bit in the arch. Over the arch on the inside should be raised out a bit, with the arch cutting in under a little deeper. The upper section above the heel needs to be narrowed a good amount, and the top of the foot, up past the toes needs to be shaved down a bit more. It would be helpful if the whole last was well sanded, and oiled to the leather would slide around more easily. It also needs some sort of connector piece that goes on top of the ankle, attaching the three pieces together when needed.
The pattern works well, although if I reduce the area above the heel in the last, the ankle will have to come in a little.
The first set of lugsoles I installed were too short, so I had to rip them off and make new ones. The ridge along the lace holes will need to be shaved down about 1/8 of an inch.


Blogger M.Petronius said...

Hmmm. I wonder if using a Last for caligae is worth doing?
M. Flavius Petronius
r_saulpaugh at Yahoo
14th Gemina (Wisconsin)

March 6, 2005 at 7:30 PM  
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